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Evo x Shop Car: Take a look into Panda Motorwork's newest project! From a dealership, specifically for our Evo, Gary Lang Mitsubishi in Chicago, IL. To rein in control of the AFR and knock of the stock tune piece by piece,.
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It is impossible for a mechanic to diagnose your problem accurately without seeing/hearing the problem with his own senses. Any advice you receive you must use AT YOUR OWN RISK. OUR PARTNER SUBREDDITS:. Hello everyone and thank you for looking at this post!I have a serious problem with my car and therefore with my life. I drive a tuned Evo X (because I'm a 22 year old male who is stupid and loves going fast) my mods are:-Walboro 255 Fuel pump-Injector Dynamics 1000cc Injectors-ETS down pipe-ETS Catted test pipe-Turbo Smart BPV-Hallman Pro MBC-AMS Front Mount Intercooler-AMS Cold Air intake-Wideband GaugeThe Problem:It started a couple months ago.
Slowly the car has begun idling awkwardly and was having trouble driving in the rain and wind. It felt like getting on the pedal would cause it to hesitate to give me my power as requested.Took it to my tuner and the shop, thought I had a boost or exhaust leak and had them do my summer switch to E85. Nothing was found as far as a leak and everything seemed to run normally for them (though that could be due to the fact that the car was warmed up when I got to them). Upon switching it seemed fine and I got it home, went easy on it and flushed out the E85 and put in a fresh 100% tank of the stuff. Now the car is idling even worse. It gets down to 700 maybe lower and begins to sound like it's going to stall. My wideband shows it go lean and goes over 18afr.
It bounces around and goes down to 12afr. When I start to accelerate and shift it hesitates, then goes rich and then goes lean (I'm talking shift in to neutral for next gear; car goes 10afr; get in to next gear; car hits 17afr and then stabilizes). On the freeway it does decent if I don't touch the pedal for more or less gas and hold fairly steady. My tuner has sent me a couple different maps and each one hasn't fixed it. I swapped the MAF because he thought that might be bad, and now he is recommending the O2 sensor followed by the Fuel Pressure Regulator.My Question:Does replacing the O2 sensor and the FPR sound like it's the problem. The tuners maps are the best. I've never had a problem so I'm definitely inclined to believe it is something other than the tune.Side note:I do not have a single check engine light.
I only had one when I was coming home after the switch in fuels when I tried to get on it (35% throttle) and it showed a rich in bank 1 code.Thank you all for your help!. Because the Evo X ECU reads air and fuel and adjusts timing and boost on the fly to compensate. A shitty MBC bypasses this completely. Your ECU might be reading knock and trying to pull boost so it doesn't detonate as a safety feature, but your 'tuner' has bypassed this, so your turbo just goes ball-out until your motor eventually shits the bed in a year or so.
Its just that MBCs are easy to use.but they will burn out the motor over time and cause problems especially when elevation and temperature outside changes. You need a 3 port boost controller, and 1 tune for E85 and 1 tune for gas, and you need to never go to that tuner again. He doesn't know how to tune a 3 port, and YOU don't know that HE isn't a good Evo X tuner. Go check out evolutionm.net if you need more information.
Click to expand.well, they are definitely not notable misfires like you'd feel from spark blow out and my J&S can tell what cylinder it comes from (or which ones when multiple) and it's usually showing up on only 1 and sometimes 2 jugs. I've felt rich mis-fires plenty and this doesn not feel like them as you can't tell it's doingit other than the J&S's visual readout. But i don't think it's true 'knock' either which is why i'm calling it 'engine noise' for these purposesi'll try and finish my headrest camera mount today and maye get some video of the 'knock/noise' showing up and thena pull or two with it leaned out with nothingshowing up but less power being madethis one has me a little curiouse ot say the leastalos mis-fires show up as lean spots on the AFR table, look atthose logs and you'll see very smooth and consistant running engine. Thanks for the good observations, it's always insightful.One trend I've seen is that an engine tends to get noisier as the power level goes up.
There's more force pushing the hard parts around.Another trend with E85 is that higher HP levels can use richer AFR's because there's more heat in the cylinder to help atomize/vaporize the incoming air-fuel charge. Just make sure your ignition system and plug gap is suited to the power level and AFR you plan to run. It sounds like you found a nice AFR for your setup.BTW I had some good results from getting my car corner weighted so it still pulls straight when the wheels break free.